A template is an exact, full size model of the granite pieces that you want for your kitchen or bath counters. The plastic template is cut to fit the kitchen in pieces that will correspond to the granite counter pieces.  All cutouts are located and shown full size.  The template is then labeled, clearly showing seams, cutouts, edges, backsplashes, etc. The template must be accurate since the granite will be cut directly from your template.  Templating your countertops by yourself can save you about $250 for a standard kitchen.

A kitchen ready for templating is shown to the right. The sinks, faucets and cooktop are on site along with their template if any.
 

MATERIALS
 
Templates are best made of polystyrene plastic, which you can obtain in plastic sheets of 2’ x 8’.  These sheets cost about $5 to $8 each.  Note that you can cover only 24" from one sheet. If your countertops are 25" you will have to cut a 3" slice from another sheet and glue the overlaps.  Be sure to buy enough sheets to have sufficient material on hand.   It comes in two thickness: 0.020 costs less and is easier to work with; 0.030 is stiffer.
 

TOOLS
 

You will need the following tools:

• A metal 4’ straight edge (a 2’ could work)

• A metal 24" carpenters square

• A utility knife with sharp blades

• A utility scissors

• A permanent marker

• A measuring tape

• Duct Tape
   

• Some ¼" plywood or paneling

PREPARATION

All the cabinets going to the floor need to be installed.  You will need to have on hand at the site any items that will be mounted to the counter ­ sinks, faucets, sprayers, cooktops, etc.

If this is a retrofit or remodel, you would do best to take out the sink and faucet.  Alternatively, you can work around the sink by cutting a hole in the plastic to fit over these obstacles and replace the cutout after fitting.

Bridge holes and gaps with plywood or paneling, such as over the dishwasher opening and sink opening so that you can lay your plastic templates over the top without drooping or sagging.
 

PROCEDURE

1. Cut the plastic into counter depth pieces.
For most standard 24" counter with a 1" overhang, this will mean cutting 25" strips.

2. Assemble pieces on the cabinets.
Use thin (1/4") plywood or paneling to bridge gaps over dishwasher and sink openings. The picture on the right shows how sheets are overlaid to use one cut for the pattern of the other cut on a seam.
 

3. Cut each piece to length.
You can leave some gaps in the rear (1/8") to fit the pieces, especially if you are using backsplashes to cover the gap.

4. Locate cut outs:
Sinks & Faucets Locate the centerline of each sink by noting the cabinet centerline below the template. Mark the center line. Place the sink template on the granite template and trace around. Note whether the sink is an undermount or top mount. Try to maintain at least 3 ½" of granite on the front, sides, rear and between dual sinks to prevent cracking the granite during shipping and installation. Locate flange with dotted line. Label completely.

Cooktops ­ cooktops generally don't leave enough material for a cutout. You need a minimum of 3 ½" top and bottom. If it is less, then you need to do this separate pieces.
 

5. Label:
Number each template sequentially and circle number.  Label each seam with letters on both sides of seam and put cross hatches (label joined). "Seam A / Seam A"

6. Contact us:

Contact us to find the best way to have your templates sent to use.  We might be able to pick it up at your place.
 

Some additional information about

Sinks: come in top mount or undermount designs. In either case, cutouts need to have 3 ½" of minimum thickness of granite (at the front and at the back) to be structurally sound.  Check this thickness when selecting an undermount sink.  If your countertop is 25" wide, then you can have a maximum sink cutout size of 18" front to back.

Faucets: allow sufficient room for faucets and check the size of the faucet base.  If you order backsplashes, these are usually supplied in 1 ¼" material. If you have an 18" sink which leaves 3 ½" granite, subtract the backsplash width of 1 ¼" and you have only 2 ¼" left for your faucet. Most faucets, sprayers, soap dispensers, hot water dispensers use a 1 3/8" hole – but check the instructions and physically measure the base for width. Check that the base will cover the hole.

Backsplashes are convenient for covering irregularities, also the granite doesn't need to fit tight to the wall.  They are provided in matching granite if you request them.  They are normally 4" high, but can be cut to any height.  If you do not specify, they will be provided at 4".

Seams:  The visibility of your seams will depend on the granite color, pattern and location of the seam.  A darker color with a uniform grain will not be very visible, while a lighter color with dramatic grain pattern will be more apparent.

Size: Most colors are available in slabs of 6’ x 8’ (some are larger, up to 7’ x 11’, but call to make sure). You cannot have a piece larger than these.

Careful installation is necessary to achieve a good-looking product.  Carelessness, insufficient help, or lack of experience can result in broken pieces or a less than desirable installation job.
 
Basically, you have two choices:

1. Hire a professional

There are people who have experience installing granite counters.  If they don’t specialize specifically in granite, sometimes a tile installer or kitchen installer can also do the counters.  Charges should range in the $8 per square foot.

2. Do it yourself

We will attempt to describe the process here, however, please read everything carefully so you can make a good decision as to whether you can tackle this job. We highly recommend installation by a professional.  This professional might be found in the yellow pages or other business directory under granite counters, kitchen counters, but even some individuals who do tile installation and carpentry may have the tools and skills to install your counters.

MATERIALS
 
You will need sufficient labor to help lift and maneuver the pieces into position.  Some pieces can be quite heavy (multiply the area by 15 pounds per square foot to get the weight).  Not only do you need to carry these pieces, but you need many hands to maneuver them into place.  ALWAYS carry pieces vertically – never horizontal.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

You will need the following tools and materials:

• An ample quantity of good quality clear silicone sealant (This sealant provides the necessary flexible and waterproof adhesion for the granite)

• Epoxy Glue

• A razor blade scraper

• Paper Towels

• A level

• A 4’ metal straight edge.

• Some wooden wedges (to level granite until silicone cures)

• Alcohol and rags

• A belt sander (to sand and level cabinets if necessary)

• A jig saw (to cut cabinets if necessary)

• Some 2" x 4" pieces (to brace sink until silicone cures)

• Help, to carry and maneuver pieces from vertical to horizontal.

• A diamond saw may be necessary to adjust joints, fit pieces or cut backsplashes into place.

• String (to check for level)

• Carpet scraps or pieces of cardboard
   

PREPARATION

All the cabinets need to be installed. You will need to have on hand at the site any items that will be installed into the counter – sinks, faucets, cooktops, etc.
Check for level – use your 4’ straight edge or string to make sure the tops of the cabinets are level.  Sand any edges that are too high. Add small wood wedges with silicone in areas too low.

Make sure the granite is at room temperature.  If it is cold, moisture may condense and the silicone won’t stick properly.

CAREFULLY uncrate your granite.  Granite will receive its most stress during uncrating and installing, which means if it is going to break at all, it will be during this time.  Your crate will be constructed with screws.  Unscrew sequentially and remove pieces one at a time. Make sure you have a place to put each piece.  ALWAYS carry and store each piece vertically.  Have some cardboard or carpet straps available to set the pieces down.

PROCEDURE

Install any "locked" pieces first – those with other pieces seamed to them.

Installation can be simple. Make sure that the surfaces supporting the granite are level. Place the piece to make sure it will fit. Remove the piece and apply an ample bead of silicone sealant on all contact edges. Place the piece.

Continue with the next adjoining piece.  Be sure to put a bead of silicone on the joint between pieces.

If you run into fit problems – perhaps your template was not quite accurate, you may have to adjust your seam with a new cut with a diamond saw. This is a rather major procedure and should be left to the experts.

Sometimes a fit problem can be remedied by cutting a small channel into the drywall to fit the granite.  Drywall will be thicker at seams and in the corners and can result in an uneven fit unless the drywall has a channel to fit the granite.

Make sure you have plenty of hands available to maneuver the granite from a vertical carry into a horizontal position.  Without sufficient support, you could crack a piece.

A large kitchen may require some adjustments to all pieces after installation. Make sure you are still able to move pieces before the silicone sets.

Some seams without sufficient support or in a high stress area should be joined with epoxy instead of silicone. You may have to temporarily support or brace pieces until the epoxy or silicone is set.

Undermount Sinks are best installed to the granite counter before the granite is installed. First, lay the granite piece in place and make sure it fits correctly and that the sink has all necessary clearances to fit.  You may have to cut some wood of the cabinets away for sufficient clearance.  Check also at this time for clearances for faucets and other plumbing.  Again, you may have to trim some wood.

Make sure the granite has been at room temperature for at least 4 hours and is dry.  If not, the sealant may not adhere properly.
Lay the granite piece upside down on the floor.  Clean the area of contact thoroughly with alcohol and allow to dry thoroughly. (at least 2 hours).

Attach the sink with ample silicone.  Heavier sinks (enameled cast iron) should have small holes drilled (diamond drill in impact drill) on a FULLY supported granite piece to a depth of about ½". Fill with a lead shield and screw sink tabs into shields.  Use the silicone sealant and the tabs.  Allow silicone to fully cure (usually about 24 hours)

Backsplashes are installed by placing a bead of silicone along the top edge to adhere to the wall and a bead along the bottom for sealing and adhering to the counter.  You may discover that your drywall is not a straight surface – this is common since drywall compound is built up in joints and at corners.  You may have to cut into the drywall with your utility knife to situate the backsplash with a minimum of gaps. You can test this ahead of hand with your 4’ straight edge or your string.  A small gap between the backsplash and the wall can be filled using some filler (latex or silicon) that you will paint later.